Quick Answer / TL;DR: Buying from A & B Saw and Lawn Mowers is about more than sticker price. Match the machine to your property size, verify parts and repair support, inspect safety features, and calculate the five-year ownership cost. A $650 durable mower with one $120 repair often beats a $250 unit replaced every 18 months.
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What You Need
Before comparing machines, gather the following so you can make a data-based decision instead of a guess:
- Property measurements: Actual mowed area (excluding buildings, driveways, gardens, ponds, and wooded areas), plus notes on slopes and obstacles.
- Usage record: How often you cut, grass density, and material type (grass only, or also brush and limbs for saws).
- Storage dimensions: Shed or garage space, door clearance, and whether fuel can be stored safely on-site.
- Budget window: Include purchase price plus fuel, maintenance, and one expected repair over five years.
- Local service check: Confirm which brands A & B can service locally and their current parts availability.
Safety preparation: When inspecting machines in-store, wear closed-toe shoes and eye protection. Never test-start equipment indoors, and keep hands clear of blades and chains at all times.
Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1: Define What You Need from A & B Saw and Lawn Mowers
The right buying process starts with the job, not the brand. Record your property size, terrain, cutting frequency, material type, storage limits, and expected annual use before comparing machines.
Measure the mowing area
Estimate the area you actually mow rather than relying only on total property size. Buildings, driveways, gardens, ponds, and wooded areas should be excluded. A smaller lawn may be handled efficiently by a corded or battery walk-behind mower. Larger or more complex properties may justify a self-propelled mower, riding mower, or zero-turn mower. For a hands-on look, see our a&g lawn mowers: complete beginner’s guide.
| Mowing area | Equipment category to consider | Main reason |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 1/4 acre | Corded, battery, or compact push mower | Low operating cost and easy storage |
| 1/4 to 1/2 acre | Battery or gas self-propelled mower | Better balance of runtime and labor |
| 1/2 to 1 acre | Premium walk-behind or compact riding mower | Reduced mowing time |
| More than 1 acre | Riding or zero-turn mower | Higher productivity and operator comfort |
| Steep or uneven terrain | Self-propelled mower with suitable traction | Better control and less physical strain |
These are planning ranges, not rigid rules. Grass density, slopes, obstacles, weather, and operator ability can change the best choice.
Define the cutting work for a saw
For saws, list what you actually cut:limb diameter, wood hardness (softwood vs. hardwood), and volume per season. A homeowner limbing occasionally needs far less bar length and displacement than someone processing firewood weekly. Oversizing a saw adds weight, fatigue, and kickback risk without adding useful capability.
Step 2: Calculate the Five-Year Ownership Cost
The cheapest saw or mower is not always the least expensive. Add the purchase price, estimated fuel or battery/electricity costs, annual maintenance (blades, filters, chain sharpening), and one likely repair over five years.
Expert Summary: A $250 mower replaced every 18 months can cost about $1,000 in five years before maintenance. A durable $650 mower that lasts five years and receives one $120 repair may cost only $770 over the same period. Repairability depends on parts availability, diagnostic access, warranty terms, and local technician support — not merely brand reputation.
💡 Pro Tip: Ask the dealer directly: “Do you stock blades, filters, and drive belts for this model for at least seven years?” A dealer who can’t answer is telling you the machine may be disposable.
Step 3: Match Power to the Property
Excessive power raises purchase and operating costs, while insufficient power increases wear and working time. A small mower on a dense acre works the engine at full throttle every pass, shortening its life. A zero-turn on a quarter-acre is paying for capacity you never use.
⚠️ Warning: Never operate a riding mower or zero-turn on slopes steeper than the manufacturer’s rating — typically 15 degrees for most residential riders. Slopes beyond that increase rollover risk. For steep terrain, a self-propelled walk-behind mowed side-to-side (never up and down) is the safer choice.
Step 4: Inspect Safety Features and Verify Claims
Before buying, physically check that the blade brake/kill switch stops the blade within three seconds, the chain brake engages on a saw, and guards and shields are intact and mounted. Treat vague marketing claims such as “green,” “clean,” or “eco-conscious” cautiously unless they include measurable data on energy use, emissions, battery life, or recycled content.
For the complete lineup, visit the how-to guides.
Common Mistakes & Troubleshooting
These are the costliest errors I see buyers make — and how to correct course if you’ve already made one:
- Mistake 1: Buying by price alone. A bargain machine with no local parts support becomes a paperweight at the first failure. Fix: Before purchase, call the service department and confirm common wear parts are in stock or orderable.
- Mistake 2: Oversizing for the property. Too much machine means higher fuel burn, more maintenance, and harder storage. Fix: Recalculate actual mowed area and downsize one category if you’re between tiers.
- Mistake 3: Ignoring warranty fine print. Many warranties require dealer-performed oil changes and service to stay valid. Fix: Keep every service receipt; check whether DIY maintenance voids coverage before you pick up a wrench.
- Mistake 4: Believing “eco-friendly” labels without data. Some battery mowers save emissions but cost more over five years than a well-maintained gas unit. Fix: Request run time per charge, battery replacement cost, and cycle life figures in writing.
- Mistake 5: Skipping the safety inspection at delivery. Shipping and setup damage is common and easiest to fix immediately. Fix: Verify blade brake response, guard placement, and controls before signing delivery paperwork.
💡 Pro Tip: Buying at end of season (late fall for mowers) often saves 15–25%, and dealers are more willing to negotiate because floor space matters. The same holds for saws after storm season.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a more expensive mower actually cheaper over five years?
Usually, yes — if it’s repairable. A $650 machine lasting five years with one $120 repair totals about $770, versus roughly $1,000 for a $250 mower replaced every 18 months. The key variables are build quality, parts availability, and whether a local technician can service it.
How do I know if a brand’s parts will be available years from now?
Ask the dealer how long they stock parts for that model line, and check whether the manufacturer publishes a parts catalog online. Brands with online exploded diagrams and long production runs are far safer bets than house brands or short-run imports.
Should I buy gas, battery, or corded?
Under a quarter-acre with access to an outlet, corded is the cheapest to own. A quarter- to half-acre suits battery well if run time per charge covers your lot. Above half an acre, or in dense wet grass, gas still offers the best runtime-to-cost ratio despite higher maintenance.
What size chainsaw bar do I need for home use?
For typical homeowner limb removal and small firewood, a 14- to 16-inch bar on a 35–45cc saw covers most work. The bar should be at least two inches longer than the diameter of the wood you regularly cut. Bigger bars mean more weight, more kickback energy, and more fatigue.
Do warranty terms really affect my buying decision?
Absolutely. Two machines with identical warranties can differ sharply in practice — one dealer performs warranty repairs in-house within days; the other ships the unit to a regional hub for three weeks. Ask who performs the warranty work, where, and how long typical turnaround takes.
How do I verify “eco-friendly” claims on new equipment?
Require measurable data: emissions figures (CARB/EPA compliance), battery cycle life, energy consumption per hour of cutting, or recycled content percentages. If a seller can only repeat “green” or “clean” without numbers, treat the claim as marketing, not engineering.
